A Personal Journey and Tabor Hill Winery’s Legacy

When I began writing for the food sections of The South Bend Tribune and The Vidette-Messenger in Valparaiso, my knowledge of wine was quite limited. Graduating from Valparaiso University in 1992, I was new to the world of wine appreciation. My early experiences revolved around affordable options like wine coolers and Boone’s Farm Strawberry Hill, alongside my uncle’s homemade wines. Mogen David’s sweet concord grape wine was also a staple during family dinners.

In late 1992, I was assigned to cover a wine pairing event by the American Wine Society. This event, held in Union Pier, Michigan, at Patty Panozzo’s Café, opened new doors. With my sister Pam as my guest, we tasted wines from notable wineries in southwest Michigan, such as St. Julian and Tabor Hill.

Today, more than three decades later, my exploration of wines continues. I often reflect on the expertise my cousin Jason Hisaw and his friend Alpana Singh, an acclaimed sommelier, could have offered me. Over the years, Tabor Hill has been pivotal in my learning journey, celebrating its 60th anniversary this year. Tabor Hill has a rich history, highlighted by its wines being served at White House dinners under Presidents Ford and Reagan.

Last month, I visited Tabor Hill, chatting with Rick Moersch, the patriarch, and CEO Matt Moersch. Along with Chef Justin Carlisle, they discussed the impact of climate change on grape growing. Situated on 60 acres in Buchanan, Michigan, Tabor Hill is the fourth largest winery in the state, offering a variety of wines.

Tabor Hill was the first in Michigan to plant Riesling grapes, expanding their wine selections. In 1984, they acquired the Bronte Champagne & Wine Company, known for the “Cold Duck” sparkling wine.

Chef Justin Carlisle has crafted a new menu for the Tabor Hill Winery Restaurant. He incorporates local ingredients, creating dishes like French-style potato chips with smoked trout roe and a pork loin entrée with cabbage. Pastry Chef Bo Durham adds to the culinary lineup with creations like a specialty carrot cake and a unique “million-dollar cookie.”

More details about Tabor Hill’s history and offerings are on their website.

Years ago, I interviewed Chef John Paul Verhage from Tabor Hill, discovering a shared enthusiasm for ramps. His recipe for ramp hummus highlights this bold flavor and pairs well with chilled white wine.

Ramp Hummus Recipe

• 1 can (16-ounce) chickpeas, liquid reserved
• 1/4 cup reserved chickpea liquid
• 3-5 tablespoons lemon juice (to taste)
• 1 1/2 tablespoons tahini
• 1 cup caramelized ramp bulbs
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 2 tablespoons olive oil

Instructions:

1. Drain chickpeas, reserving the liquid.
2. Combine all ingredients except chickpeas in a blender, adding 1/4 cup of the reserved liquid.
3. Blend on low for 3-5 minutes until smooth, adjusting lemon juice as necessary.
4. Transfer to a bowl and drizzle with olive oil for garnish.
5. Serve with crackers or pita bread.

Philip Potempa is a columnist, cookbook author, and radio host. You can reach him at [email protected].