Halal Barbecue Gains Popularity in Texas

At 9 a.m. on a hot summer Saturday, nearly 100 people were already lined up outside Goldee’s BBQ in Fort Worth, Texas. Among them was 30-year-old Thanh Huynh, seated in a lawn chair since 6:30 a.m., eager for his chance to order. Goldee’s, a restaurant recognized by Texas Monthly as the top barbecue spot in the state, serves traditional Texas barbecue while offering halal options.

This emergence of halal barbecue coincides with a political climate where some Texas leaders target Muslim communities. Yet, joints like Goldee’s thrive, showing a successful blend of classic Texas flavors and halal-specific selections like brisket, turkey, and lamb.

There’s a burgeoning number of Texas pitmasters bringing halal into the mainstream. At least a dozen establishments now serve it. Yearby’s Barbecue & Waterice, operated by Black Muslim couple CJ and Sabrina Henley, plans to open in Plano. Levant Mediterranean BBQ, with locations in Houston and Frisco, offers unique items like a brisket shawarma sandwich.

“For us to have highly rated barbecue, it’s a blessing,” commented Haris Ghaffar, a customer who traveled from Celina to enjoy the offerings at Goldee’s.

The rise of halal options reflects broader culinary shifts. Once considered niche, halal food is now a multibillion-dollar industry woven into America’s food culture. Food writer Farhan Mustafa noted this in Bon Appétit magazine. He states, “Halal food is American food.”

Zain Shafi, a pitmaster and co-owner of Goldee’s, uses his background to introduce dishes like tandoori smoked turkey. He emphasizes the quality of halal cuts, considering them superior.

Salahodeen Abdul-Kafi, owner of Kafi BBQ in Irving, brings halal Wagyu beef and Iraqi spices to classic Texas barbecue. He’s challenging traditional norms by avoiding pork entirely and focuses on quality. “My goal is to make the best barbecue in Texas,” he declares.

Abdul-Kafi’s transition from a tech career in Silicon Valley to barbecue reflects a personal quest for community. His restaurant draws crowds with innovative items like 13-spice Wagyu brisket and Iraqi-style spicy beef sausage.

Jonathan Tate, a delighted customer, remarked, “That sausage, I’d probably put it at the top sausage I’ve ever had.”

Despite political hostility towards Muslims, growing interest in halal barbecue stands as a counter to negative narratives. Abdul-Kafi notes how it contradicts claims of Muslim isolation, highlighting community contributions to Texas’s renowned cuisine.

The success of places like Goldee’s and Kafi BBQ suggests a broader appeal. Areeba Ali, after dining at Kafi BBQ with her family, observed the diverse clientele. “You see everybody in there,” she says, reflecting the broad resonance of halal barbecue.

Farhan Mustafa sees this persistence as a testament to the resilience and cultural integration of Muslim Americans. “Our food is here to stay,” he concludes.

This story results from a collaboration between NPR and Religion News Service.