Review of the Anthony Bourdain Biopic ‘Tony’

The biopic ‘Tony’ explores a summer in the life of a young Anthony Bourdain, offering a glimpse into his formative years. Although the film sets the stage for a coming-of-age story, it leaves much to be desired.

Directed and co-written by Matt Johnson, ‘Tony’ takes creative liberties with Bourdain’s life. The film tells the story of a young man working in a Cape Cod restaurant in 1975. It focuses on how he grows through this experience yet falls short of fully capturing the essence of Bourdain, known widely from travel shows like ‘Parts Unknown.’ The portrayal misses the mature Bourdain that audiences cherished.

The movie might have worked even without Bourdain as its central figure. Stories of personal growth are universally appealing. Yet, Bourdain, as an evolving personality, never truly emerges here.

Dominic Sessa plays the teenage Bourdain, capturing an awkward phase with his hunched posture and unruly curls. However, his portrayal rarely displays moments of joy or passion, even in relation to food or adventure. His character remains closed off, missing key opportunities to connect with viewers.

In his memoir ‘Kitchen Confidential,’ Bourdain delves into his time in Provincetown, Massachusetts. These chapters were significant but perhaps not weighty enough to carry an entire narrative.

The film starts with a quote from ‘Kitchen Confidential’ where Bourdain describes himself as a young man in need of discipline. He matures from a dishwasher to a cook, exploring camaraderie in the kitchen while succumbing to the lure of hard drugs. Despite this pivotal summer, the film never shows Bourdain’s transformation into a culinary icon nor does it depict his drug use.

Johnson, who co-wrote the screenplay with Matthew Miller, Todd Bartels, and Lou Howe, alters the narrative by introducing a fictitious culinary mentor with elements drawn from historical figures. The portrayal of the mentor, played by Antonio Banderas, lacks clarity. His character holds spiritual beliefs yet operates within a harsh kitchen environment.

The film fails to ignite Bourdain’s passion for culinary arts and culture. Unlike the vibrant tales in ‘Kitchen Confidential,’ ‘Tony’ does not portray Bourdain’s eventual vision to celebrate food’s power and symbolism.

There are, however, charming scenes, such as a cameo by chef Eric Ripert, and interactions involving oysters. Actor Emilia Jones adds warmth as Bourdain’s love interest. Leo Woodall’s performance as Bourdain’s friend Sal adds depth. Drawing from a specific period rather than spanning a full lifetime should have been intriguing. Unfortunately, ‘Tony’ does not succeed as an origin story.

‘Tony,’ released by A24, debuts in theaters in Los Angeles and New York on Aug. 7, expanding on Aug. 21. The film received an R-rating from the Motion Picture Association for strong language, drug use, and sexual content/nudity. Its runtime is 106 minutes, earning two out of four stars.