A Journey Across Lake Michigan on the SS Badger

Every year, many mark the end of summer with Labor Day. It feels like a natural conclusion, even if some wait for the official start of autumn on September 23. This tradition includes the last overnight journey on the SS Badger, a steam-powered passenger ferry on Lake Michigan, which has been running since 1953.

The Badger’s overnight crossings are unique in the ferry world. Departing under the cover of night, midway through this four-hour trip, the lake shrouds travelers in darkness. Only the distant running lights of a passing tanker disrupt this void, creating a surreal experience on a shadowy journey.

Arriving in Ludington, Michigan, the ferry’s winter base, offers a poignant conclusion to summer’s adventures. Though the Badger runs until October 11, the Labor Day overnight voyages pause until the following May. This journey is the perfect way to signal summer’s end and prepare for the upcoming season.

The trip starts in Manitowoc, Wisconsin, where the Badger acts as the marine segment of U.S. Highway 10, which normally runs from Seattle to Detroit. In the dead of night, Manitowoc is quiet, its streets empty and lights winking yellow, with the faint scent of barley from a nearby plant in the air.

Having experienced a recent overnight trip on the Badger, attendance was sparse. Only 30 passengers occupied the vast 400-foot ship built in the 1950s to transport rail cars. This vessel, now a National Historic Landmark, once handled the overflow of Chicago’s rail congestion by ferrying freight across the lake.

Despite its origins as a rail ferry, by the early 1970s, rail congestion lessened, and ferries like the Badger declined. However, in the 1990s, Charles Conrad revived it, turning it into a passenger and commercial ferry.

Today, the Badger’s odd schedule attracts diverse travelers. Star gazers and meteorite enthusiasts appreciate the clear skies over Lake Michigan. Some truck drivers and frugal travelers fill the boat, while a notable number of Amish and Mennonite passengers ride too.

During my trip, the arcade stood empty. The cafes and playroom were void of visitors, illustrating the quiet allure of the overnight ferry. A documentary on the Badger aired in its screening room, showcasing its historic furnace room, now complying with EPA regulations on coal ash disposal.

The small museum onboard tells the ship’s stories, filled with its original Eames chairs from the 1950s. At 3 a.m., Timothy Merrick, the lone gift shop attendant, immersed himself in a book, content with the solitude and overnight work.

As the Badger cruised with a subtle rock, some passengers dozed in staterooms while others bundled on decks under hoodies and sleeping bags, accompanied by the occasional smell of bacon from the crew quarters.

For the few passengers, the journey maintained an eerie calmness. The SS Badger offered a bizarre yet hauntingly beautiful experience for those willing to embrace the quiet and solitude of its night passage.

In Ludington harbor, early morning activities stirred. Fishermen scattered as Coast Guard boats navigated the ship’s arrival path. By the time daylight offered a clearer view of the day, the adventure was over for now, leaving travelers with another story of the Badger.