Emiliano “Ruben” Martinez had faith in his new taqueria, Asadero, and its charcoal-grilled steaks. Despite no initial interest, he was confident Los Angeles would appreciate his premium steak tacos, even at a higher price point. As an opening chef at Mírate, a Los Feliz taqueria, Martinez had experience with tacos costing $9 or $10 each, but street sales were different.
Patience paid off for Martinez. Now, Asadero attracts thousands to a Hollywood Pavilions parking lot, with customers waiting up to three hours for grilled Wagyu, USDA Prime, or Angus tacos, alongside pork al pastor, plancha-seared chicken, and chile relleno. This steak-focused stand competes with other popular L.A. taquerias like Sonoratown and Tacos Los Cholos, as well as the newer Tacos Royale. Martinez notes there’s a niche and price point for everyone.
“Culturally, we often search for an affordable taco stand,” he said. “But Mexico has 32 regions, each with unique cooking styles. Even in my old neighborhood, there were diverse taco offerings.”
His trademark taco, the gaonera, uses thinly sliced rib-eye steak cooked over mesquite charcoal. At a separate grill, thicker skirt steaks sizzle before being diced for arrachera tacos. Additionally, crispy plancha-fried beef trimmings, available as toppings or taco fillings, are offered at $1 to reduce waste. All beef is lightly salted Sonora-style to enhance meat flavor, while offerings like al pastor involve a multi-day marinade with house-made tepache, served on flour or blue corn tortillas.
Drawing inspiration from family farms in Vizcaíno and La Paz, Martinez’s setup reflects years working in high-volume Las Vegas kitchens, catering for 10,000-person banquets. He operates grills for specific steaks, a trompo and main plancha team, a tortilla warming team, and a dedicated rib-eye taco specialist due to their cook-to-order nature.
A nearby table features house-made salsas, including a smoky tatemada for al pastor, a sesame-rich macha, and a bright salsa verde to cut through the heavier steaks.
Growing up in Mexicali surrounded by family culinary traditions, Martinez hadn’t considered cooking as a career. Moving to Las Vegas for further studies led him to casino and hotel kitchens to support his education. In 2011, he unexpectedly fell in love with cooking. “Vegas culture encourages being the best,” he recalled. “The competitive environment drew me in, soon I worked multiple jobs.”
Six months into his role at T-Bones Chophouse in Red Rocks Casino, he became sous chef. This experience honed his steak expertise, from dry-aging to preparation and achieving the perfect char. His career included stints at Caesar’s Palace, Bellagio, Palazzo, and José Andrés’ restaurants, gaining valuable kitchen management skills in high-volume settings. “The kitchen captives you,” Martinez said, “and over time, I excelled.”
In 2016, Martinez relocated to Los Angeles, working at the Cheesecake Factory, Bottega Louie, the W Hotel, and later Mírate with renowned Alta California chef Joshua Gil. As he explored the city’s street food scene, it inspired him to launch his own venture.
Starting with a stall in Sylmar and catering for film studios, Martinez proved Asadero’s concept. After gaining momentum, he relocated the business to Hollywood in February 2025. It took several months, but customers began returning, sustaining the venture when funds were tight.
Luke Skywalker, a Hollywood resident, was an early loyalist. A self-described “meat-and-potatoes” guy, he visits three to four times weekly, drawn by cleanliness and daily fresh ingredients. “Martinez isn’t simply a cook, he’s a chef,” Skywalker said.
Features on the LA Food Podcast and the Infatuation brought long lines, reaching up to three hours. Martinez adapted, increasing production and staff, recalling Vegas high-volume experience to expedite service. Today, despite 20% to 30% more demand, the wait has reduced to 15 or 20 minutes.
Sean Mann, a local, witnessed the early days without lines but appreciates the current success even with longer waits for his chicken burrito. “Martinez’s love for food is evident in every bite,” Mann stated.
With success comes scrutiny. Social media once criticized Martinez for tortilla quality, leading him to source blue-corn tortillas from Boyle Heights tortilleria Kernel of Truth Organics. Despite thousands of positive interactions online, some still question pricing. “Quality steak prices rose from $7 to $11 per pound recently,” Martinez explained. “Our costs reflect that, not profit motives. Mexican cuisine deserves recognition.”
To handle increased catering demand, more staff joined the team. Martinez, overwhelmed by support, aims to expand with a food truck and eventually a permanent restaurant. For now, Asadero with its grills and tasty steaks contributes to Hollywood’s culinary landscape.
Asadero is located at 723 Vine St., Los Angeles and operates Thursday to Sunday from 6 to 11:30 p.m.
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