Nirmal Purja: A Legacy of Courage and Controversies

Nirmal “Nimsdai” Purja, renowned for his record-setting achievements in the Himalayas and featured in the Netflix documentary 14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible, has passed away after an avalanche during his Broad Peak expedition in Pakistan. Elite Exped, his expedition company, confirmed his death along with nine other climbers, expressing “profound sadness and immense heartbreak.”

Mountaineering Legend

Purja, aged 43, was celebrated as one of the top high-altitude climbers of his era. His groundbreaking ascents made him an international icon. Prince William was among those expressing grief, calling Purja “one of the world’s greatest mountaineers.”

Early Life and Military Career

Born on July 25, 1983, in Nepal’s Myagdi district, Purja embarked on a military career at 18. He joined the British Army’s elite Brigade of Gurkhas, later becoming the first Gurkha to join the Special Boat Service, a premier UK special forces unit. After a decade, he left the military to focus on mountaineering. In 2018, he received an MBE from Queen Elizabeth II for his achievements.

Becoming a Global Star with Elite Exped

Co-founding Elite Exped, Purja and his Nepalese partners prioritized safe, high-altitude expeditions. He gained fame in 2019 by completing “Project Possible,” conquering all 14 peaks over 8,000 meters within 189 days—beating the previous record by over seven years. This achievement garnered multiple Guinness World Records and was chronicled in the Netflix documentary 14 Peaks.

Expanding His Reach Beyond Climbing

Purja further impressed in the same year by leading the first all-Nepalese team to summit K2 in winter. He often prioritized rescuing stranded climbers, putting others’ safety above his goals. This ethos was central to Elite Exped’s mission.

He was also featured in Finding Michael, a documentary on Spencer Matthews’ search for his brother on Mount Everest. Shortly before his death, Purja reflected on his personal philosophy through a heartfelt social media post.

Allegations and Controversies

In May 2024, a New York Times article accused Purja of sexual harassment and assault, claims he publicly denied. A subsequent podcast series, Summit Justice, explored these allegations further, with Purja continuing to refute the claims.

The Nepal Press Council blacklisted The Himalayan Times in 2025 following a series of articles accusing Purja and his companies of misconduct. The council found the articles “unilateral and imbalanced.” The Himalayan Times responded by criticizing the council’s decision.

Tributes and Legacy

Upon confirming his death, Prince William expressed deep sorrow and admired Purja for inspiring courage and perseverance globally. Elite Exped mourned not only a great mountaineer but a leader who reshaped modern Himalayan climbing. Other guides, Pur Bahadur Gurung and Nima Sherpa, also perished in the avalanche, as noted by the company which extended sympathy to all the victims’ families.

Newsweek editors Tobias Meyjes and Tony Phillips contributed to this story.